Every mid-July, Togo’s Kara region witnesses a significant ancestral rite of passage known as ‘Evala,’ where thousands of ethnic Kabye men aged between 18 and 20 wrestle to become men. This initiation tradition, not compulsory but deeply influential within Kabye society, is a part of Togolese cultural heritage authorities hope to see recognized by UNESCO soon.
‘The dog is a strong, hardy and cunning animal. By eating its meat, the initiate takes on these qualities,’ Tchitchao canton chief Achille Samah Bidiwana told AFP, explaining the rite’s symbolism. Before the wrestling, the young men, referred to as ‘Evalo,’ must have three small scars near each ear, made with blades, and participate in a dance with a dog until it exhausts to death, after which they consume its meat for the first time.
The wrestling matches themselves are intense, with each man scrutinizing his opponent’s movements, seizing moments of weakness to attempt a takedown. Spectators play a crucial role, cheering on their wrestlers with advice and encouragement, bolstering the contestants’ courage throughout the bouts.
Despite not being mandatory, social pressures encourage participation in the Evala. ‘If he doesn’t, especially if he is in good shape, he brings shame on society,’ said Tchaa Tidiye, a wrestling coach in the Pya canton. The tradition also holds matrimonial implications, as ‘you can’t have a wife before becoming an Evalo,’ according to Bidiwana.
The Evala has drawn the attention of domestic and international tourists, with some traveling from as far as France to witness the event. However, the threat of violence by jihadist groups in the neighboring Sahel region has cast a shadow over tourism in Togo’s far north.
Togo’s Culture Minister Isaac Tchiakpe stated that the government has initiated the process to register the Evala on the UNESCO list of intangible cultural heritage, emphasizing their determination to see the Evala recognized internationally. This traditional wrestling ceremony is not just a rite of passage but also a symbol of Togo’s cultural resilience and pride.